We had an amazing time in Viani Bay. It was so nice anchored off the village and we got to know many people there. We’d go in each afternoon to watch the volleyball (far too competitive for us to join in though they did offer many times), and chat with them. There were a few kava sessions though it seems to have little effect on us. We only tried a couple of shells (they offer low-tide and high-tide fills to the half-coconut shell).

We heard many stories about the area. The story about the chief who put up a pig fence to keep the pigs in his area, which was how the next village became known as ‘outside the fence’ in Fijian. Or the story about the ship that came in and was speared and sunk, and the mast became the spit of coral that you see on the panorama. There was another story about the local chief who has a shark persona, getting into a fight with the chief of Kadavu (Octopus), and the octopus had 4 arms on shore and 4 arms around the shark. The stalemate resulted in a pact between the tribes. (Of course, between Willy’s english and my understanding, these stories may be very wrong!).

Our last night was particularly nice - Willy did another lovo, we took some focaccia (which disappeared very quickly). After we’d eaten, the kava bowl came out - you can see it next to the new bure that Willy built.

The kava was powdered already, and it was poured into a cloth which was then repeatedly dipped into the water in the kava bowl and massaged to extract the component parts. You have to ignore how its made, as this is better than the traditional way (where its peeled, chewed then mixed with the water!)

Whilst this was going, the kids built a bonfire of coconut leaves. Willy lit it and the kids sang a goodbye song (which alas, I did not record). It was very nice though!

We had a good evening, and headed back to the boat for the night. Before we did, the tray for the focaccia came back full of mangos.

The next morning, at 6am, we lifted the anchor which came up easily (my dive the day before untangled the chain from a bommie). Willy and his family were on the beach to wave us off, which was very nice and so typical of them. We watched so many yachts come into and leave the bay, all anchoring on the north side, missing out on such an experience. I can thoroughly recommend anyone going to Viani Bay anchor at the village and embrace the local community!

We motored out of the bay, and once we were headed west, we motorsailed in the land breeze. As the day progressed, the wind switched to the SE and we have a lovely sail around the peninsula and up to Savusavu where we picked up a mooring.